Crumpets with Porous Tops

Gently warm the milk and 125 ml water in a small saucepan until lukewarm, not hot. In a large bowl, mix the strong white wheat bread flour with the instant yeast, sugar, and salt. Pour in the lukewarm liquid and whisk vigorously for about 3 minutes, until the batter is smooth and thick but pourable, falling from the whisk in a broad ribbon.

Cover the bowl and leave in a warm, draft-free place for about 60–75 minutes. The batter should increase noticeably in volume and develop plenty of bubbles on the surface. In a cool kitchen, allow more time until it is visibly well aerated.

Slightly warm the remaining 25 ml water and dissolve the baking soda in it. Pour into the risen batter and stir briefly but thoroughly. Cover and leave for about another 15 minutes, until small bubbles reappear on the surface. Do not beat the batter after this rest.

Have ready four heat-resistant metal crumpet rings, 9 cm in diameter and about 2.5–3 cm tall, and a wide, heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet that holds all the rings. Use some of the measured oil to apply a thin coat to the insides of the rings and the bottom of the skillet; reserve the rest for later batches. Place the rings in the skillet and heat over medium-low heat for about 3 minutes. Divide the batter roughly into twelve portions and pour the first four into the rings, making a layer about 1 cm deep.

Cook uncovered over medium-low heat for about 8–12 minutes. The bubbles should burst and leave open holes, and the entire top, including the center, should become matte and set, with no liquid batter. If the bottoms brown too quickly, lower the heat and cook longer rather than flipping crumpets with wet batter in the center of the top.

Carefully remove the hot rings with tongs; if the batter sticks, loosen it from the inside wall with a blunt knife while holding the ring with tongs. Flip the crumpets with a spatula and cook for another 1–2 minutes, until the second side finishes cooking and browns only lightly. Transfer to a wire rack, lightly grease the skillet and rings again with some of the reserved oil, reheat, and cook the remaining two batches in the same way. Cooking all three batches, including heating the skillet and greasing it again, will take about 40–45 minutes.

Let each batch rest on a wire rack for about 5 minutes; the first crumpets rest while the next batches cook. Serve two per portion while still warm. The centers should be springy and moist, with no layer of liquid batter.