Pommes Fondantes — Golden Potatoes Braised in Butter and Stock

Preheat a conventional oven (no fan) to 200°C. Peel the large potatoes and trim the ends and uneven sides to make eight thick cylinders with two flat surfaces, about 4 cm tall and 5–6 cm in diameter. They do not need to be perfectly round; what matters is that they are a similar height and weigh 800 g in total after trimming. Rinse them briefly and dry very thoroughly with paper towels, then divide the salt between both flat sides.

Heat the oil over medium heat in a heavy skillet about 26 cm across that is ovenproof throughout. Stand the potatoes on one flat side in a single layer with small gaps between them. Cook without moving for about 5–6 minutes, until the bottoms are distinctly golden, then turn and cook the other side for another 5–6 minutes. Meanwhile, warm the stock in a small saucepan and lightly crush the garlic cloves with the flat side of a knife.

Lower the heat and add the diced butter, garlic, and thyme sprigs. Heat for about a minute, spooning the foaming butter over the potatoes; the butter can turn lightly golden, but its solids and the garlic should not darken. Briefly take the skillet off the heat and carefully pour 300 ml of warm stock between the potatoes, keeping your face away from steam and any splashes. Add the pepper, set aside the remaining 50 ml of stock, and return the skillet to the heat until gently bubbling; the liquid should reach roughly one-third to halfway up the potatoes, leaving the tops exposed.

Place the skillet without a lid on the middle oven rack and bake for about 30–40 minutes. Halfway through, carefully spoon a little pan sauce over the tops; if very little liquid remains in the bottom, add some of the reserved stock. The potatoes are ready when a thin knife passes easily through the center of the largest piece without firm resistance and the tops are browned. If the centers are still firm, bake for about 5–10 minutes longer and use the reserved stock so the bottom does not dry out. Use oven mitts to remove the skillet and remember that its handle will stay hot even after you set it on the stove.

Gently transfer the potatoes to a warm serving platter. Remove the woody thyme sprigs, leaving any small leaves that came loose during baking. Mash the soft garlic into the sauce with a fork, add the unused reserved stock, and heat over low heat for about 2–3 minutes, stirring until the sauce is evenly combined and glossy. Stop before the liquid evaporates down to just fat.

Arrange the potatoes on four plates, two pieces per portion, with a browned surface facing up. Divide the sauce around the potatoes and serve immediately as a side dish. Pouring it mainly over the sides and around the potatoes will help the delicately crisp tops stay that way longer.