Cacio e pepe — pasta with pecorino and black pepper

Grate the pecorino very finely using the fine holes of a grater, making light shreds that will combine easily with water. Do not use the hard rind. Crush the peppercorns in a mortar or with the flat side of a knife; set aside 1 g for serving and use the remaining 3 g in the skillet. Have ready a large bowl at room temperature, a small bowl for the cheese cream and pasta tongs.

In a wide pot with a capacity of 3–4 l, bring 1.5 l water and 6 g salt to a boil. Add the spaghetti and, as the lower ends soften, gently submerge the full length of the strands. Stir frequently, especially at first, so they do not stick together. Plan to remove the pasta about 2 minutes before the al dente time on the package; it will finish cooking in the skillet. Do not add olive oil to the water.

While the pasta cooks, put 3 g pepper in a dry skillet about 28 cm across. Heat over low heat for 30–45 seconds, shaking the skillet, just until fragrant. The pepper should not smoke or burn. Carefully add 60 ml starchy water taken from the pot after the spaghetti has cooked for a few minutes. Take the skillet off the heat until you transfer the pasta.

Before removing the spaghetti, reserve 250 ml water from the pot in a pitcher. Measure 60 ml of this into a small cup and let it cool for 3–4 minutes. Transfer the pasta with tongs to the pepper skillet, keeping the liquid at the bottom. Cook over medium heat for about 1–2 minutes, stirring, until the strands are al dente. If the skillet is drying out, add 1–2 tablespoons of water from the pitcher. A little liquid should remain on the bottom to combine with the cheese later.

Turn off the heat and transfer the spaghetti with all the liquid and pepper to the large bowl at room temperature. Toss for 1–2 minutes, until the pasta stops giving off heavy steam. In the separate small bowl, combine all 160 g grated pecorino with the measured, cooled 60 ml water, adding it gradually and stirring vigorously. It should form a thick, smooth cream. If it is very stiff, add another 1–2 teaspoons of cooled water from the pitcher. Do not pour boiling water over the cheese.

Add the cheese cream to the warm pasta, now no longer giving off heavy steam, in 2–3 additions. After each addition, stir vigorously and lift the strands with tongs. If needed, add cooled water from the pitcher a tablespoon at a time, until the sauce is smooth, fairly loose and coats the spaghetti thoroughly. You do not need to use all the reserved water. Do this entire stage in the bowl, without heating: intense heat encourages the cheese to clump. If the sauce thickens quickly, add a tablespoon of lukewarm water and toss again.

Divide all the pasta and sauce between four plates and sprinkle with the reserved 1 g crushed pepper. Serve immediately, before the sauce thickens as it cools. Use all the cheese and pepper in the recipe; no extra cheese or fat is needed. Discard the remaining water in the pot and any unused water in the pitcher.