Carciofi alla romana – artichokes braised in olive oil

Combine 1500 g water with all the lemon juice in a large bowl. This bath is only for briefly holding the artichokes as you trim them. Separately set aside 250 g clean water for braising and 50 g for the hot reserve. Have ready a small, tall-sided pot about 20–22 cm in diameter with a well-fitting lid.

Work on one artichoke at a time. Pull off the tough outer leaves until you reach paler, tender parts, then cut off roughly the top third of the head. Leave about 5–6 cm of stem and use a small knife to peel off its fibrous skin and the tough outer layer of the base. Gently open the center and use a teaspoon to remove the fuzzy choke and sharp inner leaves without piercing the fleshy base. Remove any clearly woody parts. Put each trimmed artichoke straight into the lemon water; leave the trimmings out of the dish.

Chop the garlic, parsley and spearmint very finely. Mix with 20 g olive oil, all the salt and pepper. Lift the artichokes from the bath, let them drain well and pat dry, including between the opened leaves. Discard the lemon water; use only the separately reserved clean water for braising.

Divide all the garlic, herb and oil mixture among the four artichokes. Tuck it into the centers and between the gently opened inner leaves. Lightly press the heads back together so they hold their shape and keep the filling inside.

Pour the remaining 40 g olive oil and 250 g clean water into the pot. Set the artichokes heads down, stems up, snugly in a single layer so they support one another and fit under the lid. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then cover and reduce the heat.

Braise covered over low heat for about 35–45 minutes. The liquid should just bubble gently. Check that the bottom is not drying out; if the liquid starts running low, pour as much of the hot reserve as needed down the side before the sauce evaporates away. The artichokes are ready when a fork slips easily into the stem and fleshy base. If they still resist, braise longer. Leave unused water out of the dish.

Assess the sauce only once the artichokes are tender. If it is too watery, carefully lift the vegetables onto a plate and cook the liquid alone without a lid for about 3–5 minutes, until slightly concentrated. Do not reduce it until dry. Return the artichokes and take the pot off the heat. If the sauce already has the right consistency, skip the reduction.

Leave covered for about 5 minutes. Serve one artichoke for each of the four portions, spooning over all the sauce from the pot, including the garlic and herbs. They are best warm or slightly cooled.