Gougères — French Cheese Puffs

Preheat a conventional oven (no fan) to 200°C. Line a large baking sheet about 30 × 40 cm with parchment paper. Divide the finely grated cheese into 45 g for the dough and 15 g for sprinkling over the puffs.

Pour the water for the dough into a pot and add the cut-up butter and salt. Heat over medium heat for about 3–5 minutes, until the butter has completely melted and the liquid begins to boil. Remove the pot from the heat as soon as it boils so you do not evaporate too much water.

Add all the flour at once and stir vigorously with a sturdy spoon until no dry patches remain. Return the pot to low heat and stir for about 2–3 minutes, pressing the mixture against the bottom. The dough should come together in a firm ball, pull away from the sides and leave a thin film on the bottom; it should not brown.

Transfer the dough to a bowl and spread it up the sides. Leave for about 5–10 minutes, stirring a few times, until just warm, not hot, and no longer steaming heavily. Crack the first egg into a separate bowl and beat the second with a fork in another bowl.

Add the first egg to the warm dough and stir vigorously until the mixture is uniform again. Add the second egg a little at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition. Stop adding it when the smooth, glossy dough falls slowly from a lifted spoon in a broad ribbon and forms a soft peak, while keeping its shape when spooned onto the baking sheet; a small amount of the second egg may remain unused. Stir in 45 g cheese, the pepper and nutmeg.

Using two teaspoons, place about 20 similarly sized mounds about 3 cm in diameter on the baking sheet. Leave about 3–4 cm of clear space between them, as they will expand during baking. Smooth any large, sharp peaks with the back of a teaspoon and sprinkle the tops with the remaining 15 g cheese.

Place the baking sheet on the middle rack and bake for 15 minutes at 200°C. Without opening the door, reduce the temperature to 180°C and bake for about 15–20 minutes more, until the puffs have risen, are deeply golden and look dry in the creases. Do not open the oven during the first 30 minutes so the dough does not collapse. If the puffs are still pale or soft, bake for about 5 minutes more at 180°C.

Transfer the puffs to a wire rack and leave for about 5 minutes to let steam escape. You can break one open: the interior should be light with air pockets, without wet, sticky dough; if you see any, return the puffs to the oven for about 5 minutes at 180°C. Serve four portions of about five small puffs, while still slightly warm.