Brandade de morue — creamy salt cod and olive oil spread

Buy salted and dried cod fillets about 2–3 cm thick; ask the fishmonger for enough to yield 600 g of flesh after soaking and trimming. The weight before soaking depends on how dry the fish is and is not the same as the desalted fish weight given. Rinse off the surface salt, place the cod in a large container, and add about 2 l of cold water to submerge it completely. Cover and desalt in the refrigerator at 0–4°C for 36–48 hours; allow 48 hours for thicker fillets. About every 8 hours, pour off all the water and replace it with fresh cold water, including before bed and in the morning; keep the fish refrigerated throughout.

Discard the final soaking water, rinse and drain the cod, remove the skin and any bones you can feel, then weigh out 600 g of uncooked flesh. Cut it into pieces about 5 cm across and refrigerate while you prepare the toasts. Preheat a conventional oven (no fan) to 180°C and cut the baguette into slices about 1 cm thick. Finely grate the garlic and set it aside for the spread.

Arrange the slices in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake in the preheated oven for about 8–10 minutes, turning halfway through, until dry, crisp, and lightly golden. Transfer to a wire rack and set aside until serving; no extra fat is needed.

Place the desalted cod pieces in a wide pot and add about 1.5 l of fresh cold water to cover. Heat over medium heat for about 10 minutes, until the first small bubbles appear, then reduce the heat to low. Cook at a very gentle simmer for about 10–12 minutes, until the fish is cooked all the way through and flakes easily. Do not let the water bubble vigorously, which can make the fish dry and rubbery.

Lift the fish into a strainer and discard all the cooking water. Leave the cod for about 5 minutes to drain and cool slightly, but remain warm. Use a fork to break it into small flakes, checking that no bones remain, then transfer it to a wide, heavy-bottomed saucepan.

Warm the milk in a small saucepan over low heat for about 2–3 minutes, until warm and just starting to steam, then pour it into a small pitcher. In a second small pan, heat the olive oil over the lowest heat for about 1–2 minutes, just until warm, without sizzling or smoking. Remove both liquids from the heat and keep them within reach for beating into the spread.

Add the grated garlic to the warm cod. Mash the fish with a potato masher, then press it against the sides of the saucepan with a wooden spoon for about 5 minutes, until no large flakes remain. Add 30 ml of warm milk from the measured amount and work it into a moist base, mashing it as finely as possible; keep the saucepan off the heat for now.

Start adding the warm olive oil a teaspoon at a time, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon until each addition blends into the fish. Once the mixture is evenly blended, add the oil a tablespoon at a time, alternating with small amounts of the remaining 90 ml of milk and beating thoroughly after each addition. Incorporate all 120 ml of olive oil and the remaining milk this way; it will take about 10–15 minutes. The spread should be creamy and spreadable, with fine strands of fish and no separating oil. If it cools while you work, briefly place the saucepan over the lowest heat, stirring constantly; do not let the spread boil.

Add the white pepper and mix thoroughly. Spoon the warm spread into a small bowl and arrange the toasts alongside for spreading. Divide the brandade and all the bread into 6 appetizer portions and serve immediately.