Pommes soufflées — crisp puffed potato pillows

Briefly rinse the peeled potatoes while still whole, dry them, then weigh out 400 g. Use a mandoline with its guard to cut even slices about 3 mm thick. Keep their natural oval shape and use all the slices. After slicing, do not rinse them and do not soak them: lay them between sheets of paper towel and thoroughly dry the surfaces, pressing lightly.

Have ready two stable pots about 20 cm in diameter and at least 3 l in capacity. Pour 1000 ml of oil into each; the pots should remain no more than half full. Heat the first bath to 130–140°C and the second to about 180°C, adjusting the heat to maintain these temperatures. A frying thermometer is helpful. Have a slotted spoon and a plate lined with paper towel ready for draining.

Divide the slices into eight batches of about 50 g. Carefully lower one batch into the first oil bath, allowing the slices to move freely. Fry for about 5–8 minutes, gently moving them with a slotted spoon and basting with oil. They should soften, stay pale and begin forming small blisters. Do not pierce them and do not crush them.

Lift the slices out with a slotted spoon, let the oil drain off and immediately transfer them to the bath at about 180°C. Fry, usually for 1–2 minutes, gently turning and basting with hot oil. The puffed pieces should have a light golden, crisp shell. Fry the flat slices until crisp as well; longer frying will not guarantee they inflate. Lift finished pieces onto paper towel when golden, before they turn very dark.

Put each remaining batch through both oil baths, allowing the oil to return to the correct temperature before adding the potatoes. Allow about 90 minutes to heat the oil and fry all eight batches in both pots. Drain briefly, divide all the salt among the finished batches and serve them immediately, including the crisp flat slices. Do not cover the potatoes, as steam will soften them. Oil left in the pots or absorbed by the paper is not part of the served dish.